Canning & Can Do

Whether you’re a late-blooming pickler or have years of experience “putting up” food and need a few more zesty recip for your repertoire, Tart and Sweet is the perfect guide.

By Kim Sunée

Photography by Ellen Silverman

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How to CanFor many of us who have been cooking and baking for years, canning and preserving foods is a whole different matter. Personally, staring down a chicken or breaking down a pig is less terrifying to me than “putting up” (canning lingo for preserving food).

I live for market days, a habit I developed living in Paris and Provence, where I would follow my favorite farmers to different village locations depending on the day of the week, and taste my way through their wares—white asparagus in spring, fall squashes of all kinds, Vacherin cheese in winter, and the first wild strawberries of summer. Everything was fresh and in season and abundant; I never thought to “preserve” any of it. And frankly, canning and jarring scare me. How do I properly sterilize the jars? What if when sealing I don’t hear that “pop” of approval? Worst of all, what if I accidentally poison a friend?

Luckily, we now have Tart and Sweet, by Kelly Geary and Jessie Knadler (and beautifully photographed by Ellen Silverman), a true visual feast that also delivers beyond the eye candy. With a voice of authority and playfulness, Geary and Knadler take the fear factor out of canning and are expert guides on how to best preserve all the goodness from your garden or local farmers’ market.

Recipes include everything from carrot-habanero hot sauce and tomato ketchup to pickled eggplant; compotes, butters, and jams to accompany buttermilk biscuits; and pan-roasted chicken with salsa verde. A section called “Ideas and Solutions” offers tips on hosting a canning party (hair ties for everyone!), what to do with leftover pickle brine (kick up a Bloody Mary), and how to navigate a pickle plate, which Geary declares is “Only the best thing ever! A pickle plate is usually a variety of seasonal pickles served as an appetizer, sometimes with some delicious cured meats and cheeses. I order a pickle plate if it’s on the menu anywhere. The flavors can be particularly interesting at Japanese, Korean and Vietnamese restaurants.”

From her Brooklyn-based Sweet Deliverance Kitchen, Geary offers a variety of popular canning workshops. On why home preserving has become so popular, she writes: “For me, there’s the rustic appeal of wanting to know where your food comes from and the allure of saving the seasonal bounty for later, for sure, but I think this canning resurgence taps into something deeper: People want to know how to make things with their hands that are more tangible, more meaningful... ‘Putting up’ even a small amount of food is a reminder that we can take care of ourselves, feed ourselves and our families, without always relying on food manufacturers to do it for us. Canning is self-sufficiency in a jar.”

So be a smart, self-sufficient cook. Take a deep breath, choose your favorite fruits and vegetables, get in the kitchen with friends (the authors remind us that no one should have to can alone), and get preserving.

Check out these great recipes adapted from the book:

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