What is Organic Wine?

By Elizabeth Coleman

With the holidays right around the corner you are probably starting to plan your menu. Whether you'll be serving two or twenty you want the meal to be perfect so of course the wine must be just right. Maybe you want to try something a bit different, something from a smaller winery, or maybe you are searching for a wine lower in sulfites. Choosing wine can be a daunting task especially if you are not familiar with the all too often intimidating world of wine. Fear not, we are here to help. We even selflessly conducted our own wine tasting, sampling 21 different organic wines (it's umm....professional responsibility, you know...research) in order to further assist you, our readers.

First of all, what is organic wine? The definition of what makes wine organic is still under debate as various groups study the subject. It can be tricky to decipher since wines are subject to various national and regional regulations and standards. Universal consensus has not yet been reached.

Here in the United States, there are several organizations that watch over the organic wine sector. The two main ones are the Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco and Firearms (ATF) and the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF). The ATF does not permit labels to carry the term 'organic wine', so instead you may see labels that carry the terms 'wine organically processed' or 'grapes organically grown'.

So what do these labels really mean? 'Organically grown grapes' means that the grapes were grown according to strict standards without the use of chemical or synthetic pesticides or fertilizers. Bottles bearing the term 'Organically processed wine' have no added sulfites.

This leads us to a rather touchy subject in the world of organic wine making, sulfites. According to Katrina Frey, co-owner and proprietor of Frey vineyards in Mendicino County, California, if the wine has added sulfites it is not truly an organic wine. This very claim is pending federal approval and may be decided by the end of the year. If the USDA decides to adopt the proposed definition, only wines made with no added sulfites will be legally labeled "organic" wines.

Sulfites

So what exactly are they? Sulfites are a naturally occurring compound found in many of the foods we eat including grapes, garlic, onions, fruit juices, dried fruits, jams and baked goods. These anti-oxidents have been added to wine for thousands of years because of their ability to prolong shelf life by preventing oxidation and the growth of bacteria.

Before we go any further lets get one thing clear. Organic does not mean sulfite free. Sulfite free wines are extremely rare. In fact many argue they do not exist. To clarify this issue we spoke with Dr. Roger Boulton, Ph. D., professor of Viticulture and Enology at the University of California at Davis. According to Dr. Boulton sulfites occur naturally in wine as a product of the fermentation process. During fermentation, yeasts, the agents of fermentation (which occur inherently in all grape skins) produce sulfur dioxide. There are some yeasts that consume the sulfur dioxide they produce resulting in a sulfite free wine. However these wines are usually produced in smaller wineries and are not commercially available nationwide. Since sulfites act as stabilizers and preservatives a sulfite free wine is probably not going to last as long as a wine with sulfites and will be best drunk soon after purchase.

Storage tips:
If you plan to drink the wine within 48 hours a small rack kept away from direct heat and sunlight is fine. However if you plan to collect wines that need time to mature you should store them properly. Store them on their side in a cool dark place like in a closet beneath the stairs or the cellar. Consistent temperature is important since rapid temperature changes can adversely effect the flavor of the wine.

So what's the big deal you may wonder. If sulfites are naturally occurring what does it matter if a few more are added to ensure that the wine keeps well? The big deal is that many people are sensitive to sulfites and suffer from adverse reactions after drinking even small quantities of conventional wine. This is why organic wine (no sulfites added) is a welcome alternative for many wine drinkers. Also, many purists feel that if the wine has additives of any kind it's simply not organic. We leave that up to you.

Okay, sulfites and labeling aside what is the real benefit of buying and drinking wine made from organically grown grapes? Glad you asked. Not only are you helping to support vintners who have devoted themselves to growing grapes in an earth friendly manner, you're helping protect the soil, air, water, and critters living in and around the vineyards.

Conventionally grown grapes are often sprayed with a variety of pesticides and fungicides to compensate for nutrient depleted soil and other problems. Seventeen different insecticides, fumigants, and herbicides are currently being used according to conservative estimates. When the grapes are picked and crushed the residue is washed from the skins right into the juice, and therefore into the wine. The systemic pesticides and weed killers that are sprayed on the ground are absorbed by the roots and end up in the pulp of the grape, and again, in the wine.

According to Andrew Waterhouse, Associate Professor of Viticulture and Enology at the University of California at Davis, "the yeast consumes or breaks down most pesticides and other chemicals during fermentation. The yeast residue is then removed from the wine at the end of fermentation."

The EPA has ruled that wine can not contain residues of any pesticides or other chemicals that are not registered specifically for wine grapes. Richard Gahagan, Wine Technical Advisor for the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms, told us that California's laws are stricter, allowing no residual pesticides in wine. So while the pesticides may not make their way into your bottle in large quantities, trace amounts are still possible, depending on individual state regulations.

Beyond the possible traces of pesticides in the bottle, the chemicals approved for use on wine grapes can prove lethal to the environment. For example, Methyl Bromide is used as a soil fumigant and is injected into the soil before new vines are planted. It is a colorless, odorless gas that can kill when inhaled. Roundup, a popular herbicide, has been found in surface and run off water and is highly toxic to fish. These chemicals are absorbed in to the soil and are carried by run off, polluting streams and ponds. Wildlife declines due to depleted food sources (insects and other small animals), and the soil becomes weaker necessitating the use of more chemicals and other artificial aids.

As you can see, your choice of wine has implications reaching far beyond which bottle will grace your holiday table. By choosing a quality organic wine you will not only enjoy a wine lower in sulfites and free of pesticide traces, you will help to protect and promote a healthier environment. So go ahead, open that bottle and drink a toast to family, friends, the year to come and good clean wine, truly the finer things in life.