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Goat Cheese Guru

Goat Cheese Guru

How one very enterprising cheese maker is working to get her handcrafted products into every fridge in America.

By Chip Brantley
Photography by Peter Frank Edwards

Inside a former cotton warehouse in rural north-central Alabama, Tasia Malakasis is dreaming again. The space might hold a café in one corner, she says, or a demo kitchen for cooking classes or a small specialty foods market—maybe even all three. Outside, the torn-up parking lot could become a crushed-stone courtyard with outdoor seating and a regular open-air market, all of it ringed with orchards. And right in the middle of the warehouse, she says, tracing a square into the air of the 16,000-square-foot space, “I want to put a giant glass box. That way, everyone can walk around it and see how the goat cheese is made.”