Versatility of Gravel in the Garden

Gravel as an excellent garden element

By Doug Hoerr


Herb gardens make the most of gravel’s versatility: The plants are especially well-suited to the free-draining conditions around their base, and will happily self-sow to give the garden a relaxed, naturalistic appeal.

When constructing a gravel surface, a locally sourced base material forms layer 1. The material varies depending on the part of the country, and the most efficient way to find it is to pick up the phone and call a nearby quarry or bulk-materials supply yard. Ask for the crushed stone that is typically a by-product of processing pit run gravel or crushed aggregate. You want stone that has been sifted through a 1⁄4- or 3⁄8-inch screen so that you get not only the larger stones but the dust, sand, and gravel fines that compact well to make it a stable and durable base.

Layer 2, the top layer, consists of decorative pea gravel (about 3⁄8-inch diameter). Again, the gravel’s colors will vary from region to region, so select one that is locally appropriate.

Basic guide to laying a gravel surface:

Step 1. Grab a shovel and wheelbarrow and dig out approximately 4 to 5 inches of soil over the length and width of the gravel path. Make sure that the soil beneath is firm and drains well.

Step 2. Spread the layer of crushed stone. Dampen it lightly with a hose and compact it evenly over the pathway surface with a compactor or hand tamper. You’re done when the surface is about 1⁄4-inch lower than the level of any adjacent paving, edging, or planting bed.

Step 3. Evenly rake out a thin layer of decorative pea gravel over the layer of crushed stone. Just a single stone or two in depth for the pea gravel is enough. Lightly compact the pea gravel into the screenings by hand or motorized tamper.

Step 4. Sprinkle a topdressing of pea gravel over any areas where the crushed stone layer is visible. A light misting of water over the surface will wash away any dust, and you’re finished.

Photography by Hoerr Schaudt
Originally published in Organic Gardening magazine, April/May 2014