If using thin-fleshed peppers, like the New Mexican native chiles, the flesh will be very soft after roasting, so there's no need to cook the chiles further. Most other chiles will remain fairly durable even after roasting, so to soften them, sauté them with the onion, adding a splash of water if the pan seems dry. Oregano, fresh or dried, is good with these eggs, but so is cilantro if there's some in the garden.
1. Preheat the broiler.
2. Roast the chiles right in the flame of a grill or gas burner (or as close as possible to a broiler flame) until the skins are bubbly and charred. Put them in a bowl, cover with a plate, and set aside to let them steam for about 10 minutes. Slip the skins off, cut off the stem end, and push out the seeds using the flat side of a knife. Tear or cut the chiles into strips.
3. Heat the butter in an 8-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and, if desired, the oregano. Stir and cook gently with the chile strips (if they're still firm) until the onion has softened, about 12 minutes. Remove the chiles and onion from the skillet to let cool slightly.
4. Beat the eggs with the sea salt. Add the slightly cooled chiles and onion into the eggs. If desired, add a bit more oregano. The skillet shouldn't need more butter, but if it seems dry, add about a teaspoon and swirl it around the skillet. Add the egg mixture to the skillet and cook over medium-low heat.
5. As the eggs begin to set around the edges, lift them up with the tip of the spatula and let the wet egg flow underneath. Repeat this process until you can't do so easily any longer; then dab the goat cheese over the top.
6. Once the eggs seem fairly well set, slide the pan under the broiler so that the top can finish cooking and become golden. Slide the omelet onto a serving plate, and, if desired, dust with extra fresh oregano and serve with warm whole-wheat tortillas.
Makes 2 servings